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When the shingles are being applied, lay them over the valley flashing, trim the ends to the chalk line and nail the shingles a minimum of 50 mm (2) back from the chalk line. Cut a 50 mm (2) triangle off the leading corner to direct water into the valley and embed the valley end of each shingle into a 75 mm (3) band of asphalt plastic cement.

Set up metal flashings where shingles satisfy walls or chimneys, too. Ice and water protector membranes work well to flash and help secure around skylights, dormers, turbines and other challenging roofing system locations. Apply flashing materials in performance with the shingle setup procedure, with both the flashing and the shingles set up to collaborate to safeguard around the joint locations - house shingles.

When applying the brand-new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by an action flashing. Metal Action Flashing Pieces There are 2 basic rules to follow: Each flashing should overlap the one below by at least 75 mm (3 ), however not be noticeable below the shingle top lap. Insert each action flashing in a 75 mm (3) broad application of asphaltic plastic cement, and nail in location.

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The metal action flashing pieces are rectangle-shaped fit and style, roughly 250 mm (10) long and a minimum of 50 mm (2) wider than the face of the shingle being used. For example, when using metal flashing with shingles with a normal 143 mm (5 5/8) direct exposure (such as conventional 3-tab shingles), the size of the flashing will be 250 mm x 200 mm (10 x 8).

Keep in mind: Other action flashing sizes are also acceptable. For IKO's Cambridge shingle, with its bigger 5 7/8 exposure, a 10 x 8 flashing piece is still suitable, given that the 8 measurement is still at least 2 larger than the shingle's direct exposure measurement. However, when flashing Crowne Slate, with its much bigger 10 exposure, the flashing piece would need to be 10 x 12.

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Place it so the tab of completion shingle covers it totally. Protect the horizontal flange to the roof deck utilizing 2 nails. Do not attach the flashing piece to the vertical wall. This will permit the flashing piece to move independently of any differential growth and contraction that may occur in between the roof deck and the wall.

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Ensure that the tab of the shingle in the 2nd course will cover it completely. Protect the horizontal flange to the roof. The second and succeeding courses will follow with completion shingles flashed as in preceding courses. When everything that goes below the shingles has been appropriately prepared and set up, it's lastly time to learn how to shingle a roof.

First prior to you lay the field shingles (" field" describing the large stretch of roofing system within the borders of eaves, ridge and rakes) it's crucial to set up a preparatory course of starter shingles which are specifically manufactured for that purpose. However, even if you fashion your own on-site by cutting standard shingles to size, both serve critical functions at the roofing system's eave.

Professional contractors often recommend and utilize starter strips along rake edges in order to yield a straight edge from which all the field courses can start. Additionally, these starter strips enhance the roofing system's wind-resistance at the rake. It's important to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the specific roofing system shingle due to the fact that not all shingles have the exact same exposure (the part of the shingle that's noticeable once installed), offset (the lateral distance between joints in successive courses sometimes called 'stagger' or 'edge-to-edge spacing') and/or nail placement.

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You should position nails in the appropriate area and drive them flush with, however not cutting into, the shingle. Nailing the shingles correctly is vital to the roof system's wind-resistance. Appropriate nail positioning is also a requirement for the shingles' minimal warranty coverage. If you have actually chosen closed valleys, they are completed as shingle courses approach and run through the valley. installing shingles.

As shingles are installed on the adjacent roof location, the end of each course of shingles is trimmed (cut) 2 back of the valley centerline. You have actually nailed in the last field shingle and you can see the goal from here. Well done! In this case, the surface line is the hip and ridge topping. replacing shingles.

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Rather, individual ridge cap shingles are used to straddle the ridge and shed water down either slope. There are various ridge cap shingles readily available on the marketplace but, when again, the treatment for installing them is based upon the very same essential principle of overlapping. For hips, begin at the bottom and work upslope.



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